It’s mentioned several times in the review that the battery is built-in. Not sure what you mean with “omitted from the review”.

Basically there are two common charging systems:

• Armytek like, where you have to loosen the tailcap to charge the battery. When tightened, the terminals are shorted, so it’s absolutely safe. When loosened, they are in series with the battery, but the driver limits the current. So the current would be whatever the flashlight draws in regular use - while it’s off just a few microamps.

• Olight or Skilhunt like, where the charging terminals are separate from the normal circuit. It needs some kind of protection. Either a clever circuit using a FET, a diode or something like a polyfuse that disconnects the terminal if the current gets too high. These type is prone to leakage, for example 2mA for many Olight or much higher current for most Skilhunt. These methods are safe for short circuit situations (although a short pulse of current could cause sparks), but canddrain the battery if the terminals are bridged with some resistance. Depending on the water/mud properties it could pass some current, too little to trigger the protection, but enough to drain the batteries over a longer duration.

It’s built-in. The back cover is secured with four screws, so I assume you could replace the battery once it’s dead. But the seal didn’t want to release the cover without force, so I stopped to not damage it prematurely.

With some imagination the lanyard could be seen as a ring.

On the other hand, I just tried to stab myself and it didn’t hurt. Definitely no real kunai.

It’s mentioned in the review. It reaches 38°C in turbo, or 43°C if you activate turbo again. That’s rather moderate for a modern flashlight. Usually I set my limit to 55°C - not because the flashlight would be damaged, but that’s the limit I can comfortably hold in my hands.

It’s the same type of flashlight. Hard to say when something is a clone if the specifications are similar.

They share the same basic features: white light, UV and green laser (both class 3A/3R). Rotary control to select the channel, electronic switch in the middle. In addition the E26 has a tail switch for direct access to turbo. The rotary switch also has a lockout setting.

The Arkfeld Pro has magnetic charging, the E26 comes with a USB-C port. The Luminus SFT-40 in the E26 has a pretty neutral tint and is thus much better than the Arkfeld Pro with its greenish light. Output should be similar.

Oh sorry, maybe just bad wording. I meant that the round light emitting surface (which usually helps to improve the beam and reduces artifacts) is not enough to make this a better light.

I didn’t see the weight of the battery mentioned so can’t compute WH/kg, but I didn’t look closely.

Yeah, it’s mentioned right at the beginning of the review:

Weight (38121 battery): 342 g

It’s just their way of boosting initial sales. Afterwards it will likely be available from their regular shop and retailers.

Similar, but dedomed has a much narrower spot.

Could they possibly do an anduril version of the Sofirn SC13? Or revive the LT1 Mini? Either would be nice.

That would be a question to Sofirn and not Wurkkos. Although made in the same factory, they are different companies (more or less).

As mentioned in the review, Wurkkos is already working on an Anduril version.

Hard to say, lol. The driver isn’t potted and a hard impact might damage the inductor of the boost driver or other parts of it. The glass can shatter, the aluminum deform. You can destroy any light with enough force. But for normal use it should be good enough.

The protection circuit of a cylindrical Li-Ion battery doesn’t report anything. All it can do is to interrupt the circuit if the current gets too high or the voltage too low.

You might mix this up with tool batteries that usually have multiple cells in a series and in parallel, monitored by a battery management system (BMS).

Most quality flashlights have an integrated low voltage protection. The protection PCB will only protect the battery when it’s handled outside of the flashlight, but it will usually reduce the performance and efficiency due to the added resistance.

That photo doesn’t look like a Sofirn LT1S at all.

You mean Li-ion with integrated step-down converter? They usually require their own special “charger”, there’s no universal standard.

For example Sofirn SC32 or Manker U22 III.

Stubby lights are often hard to hold. This design feels surprisingly secure in your hand. The wait really helps a lot.

It will run higher right after turn on for a few minutes. That’s pretty good for a turbo mode. Many flashlights hold their maximum brightness for only a few seconds.

Usually I have my eyes closed during showering (without glasses I wouldn’t see much anyway). So not much light needed.